To help set the scene, there are probably more surfers in Encinitas than there are in the entire country of Jamaica. When you paddle out into the lineup, it’s like slipping into a time warp. Sort of what we imagine surfing in California was like back in the 50’s, when you knew everyone out there because they were the same few dedicated locals, day after day.
After a few croissants, a little too much espresso, and a surf check from our balcony (that just so happened to overlook this iconic surf spot), we rallied the troops and began our trek down the massive dune to the water’s edge.